The Wolseley

Those of you who have read my review of the Wolseley in the brunch section will understand something of how deeply it pains me to report that standards have fallen. This previous mecca of superb Eggs Benedict, after years of consistent perfection and the top ranking on our international UBS scale, has fallen from grace.

Perhaps I jinxed things rather, by mentioning to the waitress when I ordered how we appreciated the always perfectly poached soft egg yolks at the Wolseley. She assured us we would get the same so imagine my horror when my long awaited Benedict arrived with set yolks. It takes a lot to make me do this but I called the waitress over and sent it back.

The yolk lapse I could forgive or at least blame on especially erratic service. For some reason service on this morning really was up in the air, with one of our friend's having to wait and then ask twice for tea when the rest of us had already received our hot drinks.

The second Eggs Benedict duly arrived and the yolks, although a little on the firm side, were suitably runny to pass muster. The hollandaise was, as remembered, excellent, with a delightful lemony tang. The ham was very good. But hang on a minute - what had happened to the muffin??

In an insane, super size me, American approach to the modest muffin the restaurant had changed to a much thicker than usual muffin. It meant that the balance of the dish was utterly destroyed. With every bite of egg and hollandaise and ham you were overwhelmed with floury, white muffin.

It is therefore with true sadness that I must announce the decline of the Wolseley Eggs Benedict from its pole position on our ratings scale. Go to the Wolseley for brunch - it is a beautiful restaurant, the food is usually great and the architecture an art deco delight. Just don't order the Eggs Benedict!