Pelican

Wandering lonely as a cloud down Fitzroy Road in search of sustenance I was disappointed by the selection of less than salubrious eating establishments. Then I spotted Pelican and crossed to the quiet side of the street to check out what had led this bar to be so completely packed early on a Saturday afternoon.

The bar design is appealing just for starters. There is a wide verandah all around the corner building, enclosed behind slatted wood with giant circles cut out so you can see the view and yet feel protected and sheltered (an obvious attraction given Melbourne's notorious weather!)

I chose a corner table and perused the brunch menu with enthusiasm. Many people around me were tucking into large and impressive looking fry ups. However at another table a group were polishing off a bottle of champagne and behind me a group of four were simply drinking good looking lattes. I liked the vibe of the place which easily combined a bar with a cafe and a restaurant.

It being well past 12 I reluctantly decided against the corn fritters with an avocado salsa and decided on a tasting plate instead.

My garam masala swordfish with parsnip and coconut crisps was a revelation. The cubes of fish had been seared as if in a tandoor and were well spiced and firm on the outside with a wonderful smoky, Indian flavour. Inside the fish was moist and perfectly cooked. The parsnip crisps were gorgeous and the odd long flake of coconut added another subtle note. The plate was drizzled in a green olive oil which soaked up any remaining shreds. I ate every scrap.

My one criticism is that the tasting dish wasn't cheap at $15.50 and was indeed only a tiny portion. I had been warned that the sizes were small by one of the many friendly waiters and he certainly hadn't exaggerated. To eat enough to fill you up here would seriously dent your wallet. However the brunch menu is more reasonably priced and I can think of worse things than whiling away a warm afternoon in this bar sipping something cool and tasting my way through the eclectic and varied tapas style menu.