Les Retrouvailles

Lyon is one of the food capitals of France. We spent one night there on our way south from Paris and as we were slightly Michelin’d out after our sublime stay in Paris we decided to go to a local restaurant recommended to us by two of our favourite foodie friends. Les Retrouvailles was the opposite to Lasserre in terms of price and ambience but was still a perfect evening. Part of the joy of food is that both ends of the spectrum can be so very good.

Pierre and Odile Ezo are the husband and wife team who run this tiny place. Pierre was standing outside as we arrived and just looking at him filled us with joyful anticipation for the meal ahead – he is the quintessential comic book French chef, round and jolly with a wonderful handlebar moustache and a proper chef’s hat. Les Retrouvailles serve a five course set meal with two choices per course for a ridiculously cheap 22 Euros per person. Wine is basic and served in carafes and the table in the middle of the room is covered in a groaning selection of obscenely fattening and wicked desserts. We enjoyed an excellent meal and I could feel my arteries hardening as I tackled my crème anglaise filled, meringue covered, choux pastry dessert, but that wasn’t the best part of the meal. This being France a cheese course was offered before dessert. Odile was very helpful and showed us the two alternatives, one being a light ricotta type cheese. We took one look at the oozing, almost flowing, stinky delight of the second cheese option and chose that. Thus our love affair with our new favourite cheese St. Marcellin was born. Les Retrouvailles is worth a detour to Lyon for. Book ahead as the restaurant is tiny and we would hate you to miss out.