Montrachet

Thierry Galichet was born in Lyon and, not surprisingly, has inherited that city's superb love and appreciation of good food. He doesn't believe in advertisng, and since opening his first restaurant at the age of 19 this hasn't proved at all problematic. Since opening Montrachet in 2004 his new bistro has provided one of the highlights of Paddington's increasingly food savvy and chic scene. More recently, perhaps to gain some work life balance and to enjoy the fruits of all his hard work, Thierry has decided to only serve dinner at Montrachet from Monday to Thursday and lunch from Monday to Friday. It's a testament to the success of his restaurant that he can afford to miss the weekend trade and still run a successful business.

We arrived early on a Tuesday evening and guaranteed we'd be out by 8pm to let the next keen pair of diners in. I was sorry Thierry himself wasn't there as he sounds like a larger than life character who would make any meal an event. There is a lovely review on the website about his style of feeding his guests. Another time perhaps.

The design of the bistro is absolutely perfectly French. From the beautiful brass lamps, to the white linen covered tables and wicker chairs, the broad bar and the fabulous selection of bottles behind it, and the posters on the wall. The bar stools were covered in red leather and looked supremely comfortable. This is one bar you would be happy to sit at and eat at while gossiping with the man behind it. Thierry travels to France a lot and he has recreated a perfect French bistro on a Brisbane Street. Once inside it seems less incongrous, although sitting with the door open and a warm, sultry humid breeze blowing on my back did highlight the contrast between appearance and reality.

The waiters were, like the weather, not remotely French - but none the worse for that. Efficient, helpful and friendly and even nice about the fact that I was neither drinking or desserting as I was on a work trip. A glance at the wine list made me regret this as there was a fascinating sleection of French wines just begging to be tasted along with some of the tasty traditional food on the menu.

We began with an amuse bouche of prawns wrapped in basil and lightly battered and fried, while another of our party enjoyed the foie gras served with pear compote and brioche. Both encapsualted the spirit of Montrachet - simple, well done, fabulous ingredients allowed to shine without due fuss.

For my main I had the baked rack of lamb served with sage gnocchi and fresh pea ragout. The lamb was perfectly pink and could have been cut with a butter knife it was so tender. The peas were only lightly cooked and swam in a tasty sauce. My only real question mark concerned the subtlety of the sage gnocchi - which didn't really register on my (possibly salt jaded) palate.

My friends had a fine looking cassoulet and a perfectly cooked Wagyu steak with frites and salad - again simply done but perfectly cooked and delicious. The cassoulet was apparently good but I would like to pit Thierry against my mother - who cooks a mean cassoulet of her own that I would argue might pip Thierry's at the post. We had a delicous accompanying dish of sprouts sauteed with bacon which were delicious.

My friends enjoyed a Mont Blanc for dessert which looked very tasty (although I would always argue for warm rather than cold chocolate sauce). A glance at the cheese list revealed our old friend d'Affinois along with an intriguing spruce wrapped and brine soaked Touree de l'Aubier which I would like to taste one day soon.

The website has announced that the restaurant will be closed for their mid-year holiday from late May to late June, but that on their return it will be truffle season. I wish Thierry and family well on their truffle hunt and hope to get back to Montrachet on a non-work day soon.