The Salopian Inn

Surrounded by the glorious vineyards and rolling hills of one of Australia’s premier wine regions the Salopian Inn has a wealth of great local produce and superb wines literally on its doorstep. The restaurant is housed in a slate floored stone building dating from 1851 and guests are invited to go down to the cellar to choose their wines themselves. As we were driving onwards we had to reluctantly forgo this pleasure and have wine by the glass instead.

On this brief encounter I would describe chef Billy Dohnt’s food as peasant style food of the very best sort. I asked for one of the entrees to come as a main – and was very glad I did. I was given five perfectly handmade tortellini filled with a truly unctuous, slow-cooked oxtail ragout. Some rabbit loin sat to the side of the tortellini and the whole was gently surrounded by the most intensely beefy sauce reduction and a few crisped sage leaves. This was the sort of sauce that makes you want to lick your plate! I accompanied the meal with a full flavoured Chalk Ridge cabernet that had just the right cherry and chocolate tones to go with the dense meatiness of the oxtail but not to overpower the delicate rabbit.

My companion had twice cooked duck with a pink peppercorn sauce and a caramelised Packham pear Witlof salad. He had absolutely no complaints food wise – though his Wirra Wirra pinot noir was a little insipid.

We had decided not to have dessert as we had an afternoon of tea and cake and an evening dinner to come, but then the waiter mentioned the soft centred chocolate pudding and we knew we would at least have to share. This came with an orange brulée and some dense chocolate ice cream on the side. It was a mixed success – the brulée was intensely orangey, far too much so for me and even verging on overkill for my citrus loving friend. The ice cream was excellent but the pudding itself – although perfectly executed, just didn’t taste as good as those we remember joyfully from our days at Picnic Deli in Killyleagh.

On the whole – we would definitely go back one day – preferably with a better appetite, more time and a nearby B&B so we could start exploring that tempting cellar!